Elite Dealer

1938 Ford Deluxe

Michigan

$6,495 $9,495

Vehicle Details

Make

Ford

Model

Deluxe

Year

1938

Body Type

Coupe

Fuel Type

Gasoline

Condition

Fair

Description

Authentic 1938 Ford 5-window coupe waiting for the right restorer. This genuine project presents a solid foundation with clear potential—the original sheet metal remains largely intact, though some surface rust is visible on the front floors and rockers, typical for a car of this age and condition. The engine is currently not running but represents an excellent opportunity to build exactly what you envision.

Clean title in hand. This is an honest assessment of where the car sits today: a real prewar Ford coupe with good bones and character, ready for your vision and expertise. Perfect for the enthusiast builder who appreciates authentic 1930s Detroit steel.

Classic Ford Deluxe Buyer's Guide (1935–1940)

Full guide

Jim Vasquez

Hot Rods

1935–1940

~5 min read

Updated Apr 2026

The 1935–1940 Ford Deluxe put Henry's flathead V8 within reach of working Americans — and gave hot rodders their favorite raw material for the next eighty years. Here's how to buy one right.

This guide covers

✓ 12-point inspection checklist

✓ Common issues & what to avoid

✓ In-person inspection guide

✓ Market pricing by year & condition

✓ 6 FAQs answered

✓ History & fun facts

Read the Full Deluxe Buyer's Guide

Ford Deluxe Market Overview

Based on 175 Ford Deluxe listings currently on ClassicCarsArena.com

175

Listed Now

$35,600

Avg. Asking Price

1929–1959

Year Range

Price Position on Our Site — Below Average

This car: $6,495

Low: $3,500 High: $94,995

Transmission Distribution

Automatic 39%

Manual 31%

Condition Distribution

Excellent 12%

Good 10%

Fair 6% ◄

Poor 2%

Data from ClassicCarsArena.com listings Browse all 175 listings →

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Classic Ford Deluxe Buyer's Guide (1935–1940)

Few cars shaped American car culture as completely as the prewar Ford Deluxe. Between 1935 and 1940, Ford built millions of V8-powered coupes, sedans, and convertibles that were affordable enough for everyday buyers and fast enough to embarrass far more expensive competition. Today those same cars anchor show fields from Goodguys to GNRS, get chopped and channeled into kustoms, or sit glass-encased as factory-stock survivors. The market is broad, the parts supply is deep, and the prices — if you know where to look — can still be surprisingly reasonable. But the buying traps are just as broad. Here's what I've learned buying and building them for thirty years.

What to Check Before Buying

✓

Frame rails — Probe rear kick-up sections with screwdriver for corrosion — soft metal is a deal-breaker

✓

Floor pans — Check from underneath with flashlight; assess patch quality and extent of any repairs

✓

Cowl area — Open cowl vent, inspect firewall and cowl channel for rust and water damage

✓

Body panel filler — Run magnet across all panels — non-magnetic areas indicate filler, assess thickness

✓

Flathead compression — Cold compression test all 8 cylinders — minimum 100 psi, consistent across all

✓

Cooling system — Verify re-cored 3- or 4-row radiator; check thermostat type and coolant condition

✓

Trunk floor — Lift spare tire and inspect trunk floor and spare well for rust penetration

✓

Electrical system — Confirm 6-volt positive ground is intact and unmolested; check grounds for corrosion

✓

Torque tube — Inspect driveshaft housing for cracks, especially at rear axle union

✓

Title and trim verification — Verify body style and trim level match the title and any claimed original spec

✓

Engine oil consumption — Drive at least 20 minutes and check for blue smoke — indicates valve or ring wear

✓

Cold start behavior — Start from cold; should fire within a few cranks and idle without significant smoke

Common Issues

Flathead V8 overheating is the most common mechanical issue. The cooling system design puts the water pump on the engine block rather than the radiator hose circuit, and the early thermostats are often replaced with incorrect parts. Make sure the radiator has been re-cored with modern three-row or four-row copper/brass — the original single-row units are inadequate for modern driving conditions. Cylinder head cracking is the consequence of repeated overheating; the thin walls are unforgiving. Frame rust at the rear kick-up is structural and expensive — a car with a compromised frame is not a deal at any price until you know the repair cost. Six-volt positive-ground electrical gremlins: corrosion on grounds is the most common cause of intermittent starting and lighting issues. Floor pan rust is almost universal on cars stored outside; assess severity carefully before committing. The torque tube and rear axle seals commonly weep gear oil. Windshield glass on the earlier models was single-pane flat glass — cracks are common and correct replacements are expensive reproduction units.

What to Look For

Check the frame rails first — poke both sides at the rear kick-up section with a screwdriver. Soft metal means frame repair and a renegotiated price or a walk. Run a magnet across all body panels; thick non-magnetic areas indicate lead or filler over rust. Open the cowl vent and look down into the firewall area with a flashlight — water traps here and rusts from inside out. Pop the trunk, lift the spare tire, and check that area closely. Pull the door sill plates and look at the floor pan edges where they meet the rockers. Start the engine cold and watch for blue smoke on startup (worn rings or valve guides); let it reach operating temperature and check for oil seeps at the valley cover and the timing cover. Verify the transmission shifts cleanly into all three gears and that the torque tube (the driveshaft housing) is not bent or cracked — cracks are typically found at the rear axle connection. Confirm the body style and trim level match the title; swapped firewalls and dash panels are common in the hot rod world and may affect value.

Price Guide

As of 2025, a driver-quality original in presentable condition with a solid body and running flathead V8 trades in the $18,000–$28,000 range. Full show-quality stock restorations with documented history push $45,000–$65,000, with concours-level cars occasionally reaching $80,000. The 1940 model consistently commands a 15–25% premium over equivalent 1935–1938 examples. For project cars — complete, all-original, not cut up — expect to pay $6,000–$14,000 depending on body style (coupes and convertibles carry premiums over sedans). Hot rods and customs are priced on quality of build rather than original condition: a correctly executed period-style custom with professional chop and running flathead can reach $90,000–$120,000 at major auction. Convertibles (cabriolets) carry a 20–40% premium over closed cars across all condition grades. Be cautious of cars priced well below market — hidden structural rust and bad "restorations" are common at the lower end.

Did You Know?

The flathead V8 in these cars is the same basic design Ford introduced in 1932 as a response to Chevrolet's six — the first mass-produced V8 in an affordable American car. Hot rodders immediately recognized the potential: with simple modifications the engine could produce nearly double its stock output. The Beach Boys song "Little Deuce Coupe" immortalized the 1932 Ford, but the 1935–1940 models benefited from the same cultural halo. Edsel Ford personally signed off on the styling direction for the 1940, considering it the most beautifully proportioned car his company had produced. The 1939 Ford was the first production car in the world to offer sealed-beam headlights as standard equipment.

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1938 Ford Deluxe

Michigan

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Original Factory Colors

Official paint codes for the Ford Deluxe (1938).

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Model History