The Chevrolet Camaro launched in September 1966 as Chevy's direct response to the Ford Mustang, and for over five decades it has defined American performance for an entire generation of enthusiasts. Whether you're hunting a numbers-matching first-generation Z/28, a survivor split-bumper second-gen, or a clean third-gen IROC-Z, the Camaro buyer's market is deep, varied, and full of pitfalls for the unprepared.
Common Issues
Rust is the silent killer of every Camaro generation. First-gen cars (1967-69) hide rust under the rear window, in the trunk pan, around the rear wheel arches, and at the cowl seam where the windshield meets the firewall. Second-gen cars (1970-81) are notorious for rotten quarters, rocker panels, and floor pans — many cars on the market have been patched poorly or filled with body filler.
Mechanical issues vary by generation. First-gens commonly suffer from worn 12-bolt rear ends, leaky Muncie transmission seals, and broken motor mounts (a Big Block specialty). Second-gens add tired steering boxes, crumbling vacuum lines, and EGR issues post-1972. Third-gens (1982-1992) are plagued by failing TPI sensors, sloppy T-tops that leak, and worn front coil-over-shock units on the IROC-Z.
What to Look For
Always start with the VIN. The first character tells you the country, the third tells you the model line, and the eighth (on 1972-and-later cars) tells you the engine. Cross-reference the VIN against the cowl tag and the trim tag — mismatches mean somebody swapped a body or a clip.
For first-gen cars especially, find the partial VIN stamped on the engine block (driver's side, near the head, on Big Blocks) and on the transmission. Original drivetrains can add $15,000-$30,000 to a Z/28 or SS valuation versus a date-coded replacement.
Look closely at the rocker panels, lower quarter panels, and the rear wheel arches with a strong magnet. Body filler is non-magnetic. If the magnet doesn't stick, you've got Bondo — and that's the cheap fix being hidden, not the expensive metal repair.
Price Guide
First-generation Camaros (1967-1969) are the gold standard. A driver-quality 1969 SS396 in good condition runs $55,000-$85,000 today. Z/28 prices range from $60,000 for a clean driver up to $200,000+ for documented, numbers-matching, low-mileage examples. Base 1967-1968 small-block coupes start around $28,000 for project cars, $45,000-$65,000 for nice drivers.
Second-generation cars (1970-1981) have appreciated significantly in the last decade. 1970 Z/28 LT-1 cars are the high-water mark at $60,000-$120,000. Split-bumper 1970-1973 base coupes run $25,000-$45,000. Mid-second-gen cars (1974-1977) are the bargain entry point, often available for $15,000-$30,000 for solid drivers.
Third-generation IROC-Zs (1985-1990) have entered serious collector territory. Clean L98 IROC-Zs sell for $18,000-$35,000, with low-mileage 1LE and B4C cars commanding $45,000+.
Did You Know?
The original 1969 Z/28 was conceived purely to homologate the Camaro for SCCA Trans-Am racing — the 302 V8 (a destroked 327) was built specifically because Trans-Am rules required engines under 305 cubic inches.
The Mustang outsold the Camaro throughout the entire first generation. The Camaro did not outsell the Mustang until 1977, during the second generation.
Only 69 ZL1 Camaros were built in 1969 — they were essentially a factory drag racing special with an all-aluminum 427 big block, and they cost more than a new Corvette. A documented original ZL1 sold at Mecum's Indianapolis auction in 2018 for $1.05 million.