SELL

1978 Ford F-350

Michigan

$12,995

1978 Ford F-350

Vehicle Details

Make

Ford

Model

F-350

Year

1978

Mileage

63,000 miles

VIN

AMS40090

Body Type

Pickup Truck

Transmission

Automatic

Fuel Type

Gasoline

Description

1978 F-350 Camper Special Ford Pickup. 63,000 K, Runs well, fires right up. This is rare find and desired truck.

Ford F-350 Buyer's Guide

Full guide
R
Robert Halloran
Classic Trucks
1953–1979
~4 min read
Updated Apr 2026
The Ford F-350 is the heavy-hauler of the classic truck world, a one-ton workhorse with a devoted following among farmers, builders, and collectors who need something that can actually work for a living.
This guide covers
✓ 10-point inspection checklist
✓ Common issues & what to avoid
✓ In-person inspection guide
✓ Market pricing by year & condition
✓ 6 FAQs answered
✓ History & fun facts
Read the Full F-350 Buyer's Guide

Ford F-350 Market Overview

Based on 13 Ford F-350 listings currently on ClassicCarsArena.com

13
Listed Now
$31,533
Avg. Asking Price
1958–1999
Year Range
Price Position on Our Site - Average Range
This car: $12,995
Low: $8,595 High: $149,995
Transmission Distribution
Automatic 54% ◄
Manual 31%
Condition Distribution
Excellent 23%
Good 15%
Fair 15%
Data from ClassicCarsArena.com listings Browse all 13 listings →
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Ford F-350 Buyer's Guide

If you think the F-100 gets all the glory, you haven't spent time around F-350 people. This is a truck with a purpose, built to haul heavier loads, tow bigger trailers, and outlast just about everything else on four wheels. The F-350 has been quietly earning its keep since the early 1950s, and the classic examples from 1953 through 1979 represent some of the toughest, most honest machines ever to roll off a Detroit production line.

Robert Halloran here, and I'll be upfront with you: the F-350 isn't a show truck. It's a work truck that people happen to love restoring. The dual-rear-wheel variants especially have developed a cult following, and prices on clean examples have been climbing steadily. If you want a truck that was engineered without compromise, this is it.

What to Check Before Buying

✓
Frame Inspection , Check full length of both frame rails for cracks, patches, or previous welds, especially at cab mounts.
✓
Cab Corners & Floor , Inspect cab corners and floor pans for rust perforation, use a flashlight and probe suspect areas.
✓
Front Suspension , Check Twin I-Beam for worn king pins, ball joints, and radius arm bushings, grab each front wheel and check for play.
✓
Engine Cold Start , Start cold and watch for blue smoke (oil burning) or excessive blow-by at the oil filler.
✓
Rear Axle (DRW) , On dually models, inspect inner rear wheel wells and check for axle seal leaks.
✓
Transfer Case (4WD) , Engage 4WD high and low, both should engage smoothly without grinding or slipping.
✓
Brake System , Test vacuum booster function, pump brakes several times with engine off, then start; pedal should drop slightly.
✓
Bed & Tailgate , Check stake pockets, bed floor, and tailgate hardware for condition, work trucks often have significant bed wear.
✓
Title & VIN , Verify VIN plate matches title: F-350s are sometimes misrepresented as lighter-duty F-100s or F-250s.
✓
Documentation , Service records, build sheet, or window sticker add significant value and provenance for collector examples.

Common Issues

Cab corner and floor pan rust is nearly universal on anything north of the Mason-Dixon line. Cracked or repaired frame rails on trucks used for heavy towing. Worn king pins and radius arm bushings in the Twin I-Beam front suspension. FE engine oil consumption from worn valve stem seals or rings on high-mileage examples. Leaking rear axle seals on DRW configurations. Failing vacuum brake boosters on 1970s models. Difficult cold starts on the 360/390 FE engines if the carburetor hasn't been recently rebuilt.

What to Look For

Frame integrity is the top priority, inspect the full length of both rails for cracks, patches, or previous repairs, especially at the cab mounts and front spring perches. Check the cab corners and floor pans for rust, which is virtually universal on Rust Belt trucks. On DRW models, inspect the rear wheel wells and inner fender structure carefully. The Twin I-Beam suspension should be tight with no play at the king pins or ball joints. Verify the engine doesn't smoke excessively on cold start: FE engines are durable but tired ones will burn oil. Check the transfer case on 4WD models for smooth engagement.

Price Guide

Highboy F-350s (1967–1972) in driver condition: $12,000–$22,000. Clean, restored Highboys: $28,000–$45,000+. DRW "dually" examples command a 15–25% premium. Dentside trucks (1973–1979) are undervalued at $8,000–$18,000 for good drivers. Pre-1966 trucks vary widely by condition: $6,000–$20,000. 4WD trucks add $3,000–$8,000 over comparable 2WD examples. Budget $3,000–$6,000 for a thorough front-end rebuild if needed.

Did You Know?

The 1967–1972 F-350 Highboy earned its nickname because Ford's front suspension sat significantly higher than competitors' trucks, you had to step up to get in. When Ford lowered the front end in 1973, the pre-1973 trucks retroactively became "Highboys." The Dana 60 rear axle used in these trucks is still considered one of the strongest production axles ever made. Many original F-350 work trucks are still in daily use on ranches and farms, not as collectibles, but because they simply haven't worn out.

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