NO LONGER AVAILABLE Listing ended Oct 5, 2026

1978 Volkswagen Bus

$9,995

Vehicle Details

Make

Volkswagen

Model

Bus

Year

1978

Mileage

56,000 miles

VIN

AMB1471

Body Type

Van

Transmission

Manual

Fuel Type

Gasoline

Description

1978 Volkswagen Bay Window Bus Project Sliding sun roof- does not work Doesn’t run, not sure what it could be, maybe just needs a new starter Some electrical issues Needs body work and has just some quirks that need fixed. Like the sliding side door can open in a particular way but ideally needs new tracks, and the doors don’t open from the outside I lived in it for a couple years so I have installed a solar setup and a diesel heater, the heater needs re fuel lined I’m pretty sure. And there’s a janky insulation job that could be quickly removed

Classic Volkswagen Bus Buyer's Guide (Type 2, 1950–1979)

Full guide

Emily Chen

JDM Classics

1950–1979

~4 min read

Updated Apr 2026

The VW Bus is one of the most emotionally loaded vehicles in automotive history, and one of the most rust-prone. Knowing the difference between a restorable Bus and a money pit is the only skill that matters when buying one.

This guide covers

✓ 12-point inspection checklist

✓ Common issues & what to avoid

✓ In-person inspection guide

✓ Market pricing by year & condition

✓ 5 FAQs answered

✓ History & fun facts

Read the Full Bus Buyer's Guide

Volkswagen Bus Market Overview

Based on 8 Volkswagen Bus listings currently on ClassicCarsArena.com

Listed Now

$42,569

Avg. Asking Price

1964–1992

Year Range

Price Position on Our Site - Below Average

This car: $9,995

Low: $11,795 High: $82,995

Transmission Distribution

Manual 50% ◄

Condition Distribution

Good 25%

Data from ClassicCarsArena.com listings Browse all 8 listings →

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Classic Volkswagen Bus Buyer's Guide (Type 2, 1950–1979)

I've spent a lot of time around air-cooled Volkswagens, and the Bus is in a category by itself. It's simultaneously one of the most charismatic vehicles ever mass-produced and one of the most demanding to restore properly. The rust is structural, the parts are expensive, and the "project Bus" market is full of sellers who bought problems they can't solve and priced their optimism into the asking price. A solid Bus is genuinely rewarding to own and drive. A rust-compromised Bus is a decade-long commitment you may never finish. The buying decision is almost entirely about knowing which you're looking at.

What to Check Before Buying

✓

Heater channel tap test , Tap full length of both sills (metallic ring = good, dull thud = rust inside

✓

Heater channel probe test , Probe with screwdriver) any penetration means structural repair required

✓

Battery tray inspection , Pull driver seat, inspect battery tray for acid damage and floor rust

✓

Spare tire well , Lift front floor and check spare well for water accumulation and rust

✓

Rear lower body seam , Inspect seam behind rear wheels on both sides for corrosion

✓

Pushrod tube O-rings , Check engine bay for oil seeping from pushrod tubes

✓

Engine cold start , Listen for valve noise vs. bearing knock, valve noise = adjustment, knock = rebuild

✓

Door sills and lower corners , Check all door gaps for evenness; inspect lower door corners for rust

✓

Windshield seal (T1) , Inspect split-windshield rubber seal, leaks cause A-pillar structural rust

✓

VIN verification , Confirm German manufacture vs. Brazilian-built if originality matters

✓

Westfalia pop-top , Test mechanism and inspect all seals for leaks if applicable

✓

Brake condition , Test braking force, stock drum brakes are marginal; verify recent service

Common Issues

Heater channel rust is the defining issue of every Bus restoration. The channels are structural, correct repair requires full channel replacement, which is labor-intensive even with reproduction parts. Floor pan rust accompanies heater channel corrosion universally. Pushrod tube O-rings harden and leak; valve clearances require periodic adjustment; the carburetor requires regular attention. Original braking system is marginal, drum-to-drum with fresh hardware is a worthwhile improvement. On T2 models the front beam axle is susceptible to wear at torsion bar adjustment points. The 6-volt system on early T1 and 12-volt positive ground on later cars both require attention to grounds and connections for reliable operation.

What to Look For

Heater channels are the absolute first priority, tap and probe their full length on both sides. Dull sound or screwdriver penetration means structural repair before price can be agreed. Check battery tray under driver's seat for acid damage. Inspect spare tire well in front compartment for water and rust. Check lower body seam behind rear wheels, universal rust initiation. Verify heater box ducts are intact. Check all door sills and lower door corners. Engine: listen for valve noise (needs adjustment) vs. bearing knock (rebuild needed). Check pushrod tube O-rings for oil seepage. Verify windshield seal integrity on T1 cars, leaks cause A-pillar rust. On Westfalia models inspect pop-top mechanism and all seals.

Price Guide

T1 split-window driver: $35,000–$55,000; show quality: $80,000–$120,000; Samba 23-window: $120,000–$220,000+. T2 bay-window driver: $18,000–$30,000; show: $40,000–$65,000. Westfalia adds 20–35% at any condition. Project T2 Buses: $12,000–$25,000, but heater channel restoration alone runs $15,000–$30,000 at a qualified shop. Never buy a project Bus without a detailed metalwork estimate first.

Did You Know?

Ben Pon sketched the Bus concept on a hotel notepad in 1947 after seeing the VW factory's flatbed maintenance cart. The Bus became synonymous with the 1960s counterculture, appearing at Woodstock and countless civil rights marches. Production of the T2 continued in Brazil until 2013, 63 years after launch. The final Brazilian "Last Edition" T2 sold out immediately upon announcement.

$9,995