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1974 Ford F-100

Spokane Valley, Washington

$6,000

Vehicle Details

Make

Ford

Model

F-100

Year

1974

Mileage

87 miles

Exterior Color

Brown

Transmission

Automatic

Condition

Fair

Description

Bought this with poor brakes, bad steering, no carpet, many wires cut, basically it needed help. Previous owner said they drove it all the time......nope. I had my tow guy drop it off to a mechanic, who replaced all the brake flex hoses, old ones were dust. New drums and pads. He changed out some rubber bushings that connect to the front 4x4 axel, changed out a worm wheel bearing and added a rebuilt steering unit. This truck has power steering assist by Garrisson. This was new approach by Ford which lasted only half the year. They went back to the original for the rest of 1974. The mounting holes foe the original is there, so a swap can be done if desired.
Mechanic also changed motor oil and trans fluid. He checked the rear differential and changed the fluid there too.

A compression test revealed that the number 8 cylinder had no compression. He said this old farm vehicle idled a lot so it's no surprise. I enjoyed driving this back and forth to work.

I took over and changed out the valve cover gaskets, swapped the distributor over to electronic points and added a 40k volt coil.
Someone installed an Edelbrock intake manifold and a 600 cfm four-barrel card of the same name. They forgot to hook up the electric choke, so i did. All dash lights were burned out, so I changed them to leds. There was a crushed glove compartment, I installed a new one from LMC Truck. Swapped out the broken windshield with a brand new one. The doors got new form rubber seals to keep out the cold and stop the rattle. There was no carpet, so I cleaned the entire floor and install an original shaped carpet from LMC Truck. The heal light switch was replaced and the headlights were converted to HID. The button switches that activate the dome light was broken on both sides and the wires cut. I purchased new ones from LMC and repaired the wiring; the dome light works again. I also replaced the seat cover as the old one was shot. The blue 4x4 "Lock" light has its wire cut too. When you shift the 4x4 selector beyond 4x4 the differential locks in and the light comes on to indicate that. I replaced the worn parts, so the tailgate opens again.

The only thing I never got around to doing was replace the motor with a reconditioned 390 and convert the intake over to fuel-injection. The 390 will directly swap with the 360 as they have the same mounting pattern.

The car overheats in hotter weather now and i don't want to change the water pump on a tired motor. I'm getting closer to retirement and my time with projects like this are over.

Classic Ford F-100 Buyer's Guide

Full guide

Robert Halloran

Classic Trucks

1953–1983

~5 min read

Updated Apr 2026

Definitive buyer's guide for classic Ford F100 1953-1983. Generation breakdown, frame and cab inspection, FE and Windsor V8 identification, restomod vs original pricing, current market.

This guide covers

✓ 10-point inspection checklist

✓ Common issues & what to avoid

✓ In-person inspection guide

✓ Market pricing by year & condition

✓ 5 FAQs answered

✓ History & fun facts

Read the Full F-100 Buyer's Guide

Ford F-100 Market Overview

Based on 95 Ford F-100 listings currently on ClassicCarsArena.com

Listed Now

$23,038

Avg. Asking Price

1947–1997

Year Range

Price Position on Our Site - Below Average

This car: $6,000

Low: $2,500 High: $89,995

Transmission Distribution

Automatic 43% ◄

Manual 36%

Condition Distribution

Excellent 13%

Good 22%

Fair 6% ◄

Poor 4%

Data from ClassicCarsArena.com listings Browse all 95 listings →

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Classic Ford F-100 Buyer's Guide

The Ford F100 was the lighter half-ton of Ford's F-Series pickup line from 1953 through 1983, and across thirty years of production it became one of the foundational classic American trucks. From the iconic 1953-1956 first-generation cars (the "Effie" with the toothy grille) to the 1957-1960 second-gen, the slab-side 1961-1966 third-gen, the 1967-1972 "bumpsides," the 1973-1979 "dentsides," and the 1980-1983 final-generation cars, every era has its own buyer profile and its own pitfalls. Don't buy somebody else's project, the frame and the cab are non-negotiable. Either buy a finished truck or buy a clean rust-free truck and build it yourself. The middle ground is where most first-time buyers lose serious money in this market.

What to Check Before Buying

✓

Inspect frame at rear cross-member and cab mounts , Probe with screwdriver. Solid steel resists; rotten metal flakes. Frame replacement = $8,000-$18,000.

✓

Examine cab corners from outside and inside , Visible from inside through kick panels. Cab corner rust universal on driver-quality F100s.

✓

Lift bed mat and inspect bed floor , Universal rust point on working trucks. Rust through = $2,000-$4,500 sheet metal repair.

✓

Check rocker panels and floor pans , Pull floor mats. Both driver and passenger sides. Standard rust zones across all generations.

✓

For unibody trucks (1961-1963), inspect bed-to-cab seam , Structural rust here is essentially unrepairable. Critical inspection point on unibody-only generation.

✓

Examine cowl seam at windshield base , Where windshield meets firewall. Cowl rust drains into cab and rots floor pans. $2,500-$5,500 repair.

✓

Cross-reference VIN engine code with block casting , 5th digit of VIN (1968+) = engine code. Casting numbers verify Y-block, FE, or 351 W/C originality.

✓

Verify Twin I-Beam front suspension condition (1965+) , Worn bushings cause front-end wandering. $800-$1,800 to rebuild properly.

✓

Test drive on highway and back roads , Listen for differential whine, transmission slip, brake pulsation, steering wander. Drive at least 30 minutes.

✓

Document with photos before purchase , Every panel, frame rail, engine bay, undercarriage, tags. Build the case before you wire money.

Common Issues

F100 rust patterns vary by generation but follow predictable patterns. The cab corners (lower section behind the doors), the rocker panels, the floor pans, the cab mount points to the frame, the lower fenders, and the bed floor are all standard rust zones across all generations. The frame rusts at the rear cross-member, at the body mount points, and inside boxed frame sections, water gets in but doesn't drain out, rotting from inside. 1953-1956 first-generation cars (the iconic Effie) have specific rust concerns at the running board mounts, the fender attachment points, and the cab-to-bed gap. 1961-1966 third-generation cars (the unibody trucks of 1961-1963, then the conventional cab/bed of 1964-1966) have unique structural issues, unibody trucks rot the bed-to-cab seam from inside. 1967-1979 "bumpside" and "dentside" cars are the most popular F100 era for restomod builds and have the strongest parts support. Common issues include burnt valves on cars run with poor ignition timing, leaky timing covers, worn front kingpins (heavy-duty axle option), and tired Holley or Autolite carburetors. The Ford 9-inch rear axle is essentially indestructible; the C4 and C6 automatics are similarly bulletproof. Mechanically, the F100 used a wide range of engines. Inline-six options (215, 223, 240, 300) are bulletproof and underpowered. The Y-block 239/256/272 V8 (1953-1962) is robust. The FE-series 352, 360, 390 V8 (1958-1976) is the most common F100 V8 and the most desirable. The 351 Windsor and 351 Cleveland V8s (1969-1979) are similarly robust.

What to Look For

Frame inspection is the first non-negotiable on any F100. Crawl under the truck with a flashlight. Probe the perimeter frame at the rear cross-member, the cab mount points, and the front horns. Solid steel resists; rotten metal flakes. Frame replacement on an F100 is $8,000-$18,000 for proper professional work, verify the frame is solid before considering any cosmetic or mechanical concerns. The frame and the cab are non-negotiable. Cab corner rust is universal on driver-quality F100s, verify how much before purchase. Cab corners are reproduction parts available for $200-$500 per pair, but installation requires skilled bodywork and proper rust removal. A truck with bondo over rotten cab corners is a 5-year time bomb. Bed inspection is the second non-negotiable for any pickup truck. Lift the bed mat or any bed liner installed and inspect the bed floor with strong light. The bed floor on an F100 is a stamped steel pan that rusts from above (cargo wear) and below (water intrusion). Rust through is universal on cars used as actual working trucks; cars used as cruisers tend to have better-preserved beds. For 1967-1979 cars, the cowl seam where the windshield base meets the firewall is a critical rust point. Water collects there and rots downward into the cab and forward into the firewall. Pull the dashboard pad and inspect the cowl from inside the cab if practical. Cowl rust is one of the more expensive F100 repairs, $2,500-$5,500 for proper professional work. Engine verification by casting numbers is essential. The Y-block (1953-1962), FE-series (1958-1976), and 351 W/C (1969-1979) all have specific casting numbers. Cross-reference the VIN engine code (5th digit on 1968+ cars) with the actual block casting number. Replacement engines are common, original numbers add value but aren't critical for driver-quality cars.

Price Guide

1953-1956 first-generation F100s (the "Effie") are the most desirable era. Driver-quality cars run $28,000-$48,000 today. Restomod 1953-1956 trucks (with modern drivetrains and brakes): $45,000-$95,000. Documented original-paint, low-mileage cars: $55,000-$95,000. 1957-1960 second-generation cars: driver-quality cars run $22,000-$42,000. The 1957 model (the launch of the modern style) is the most desirable year of this generation. 1961-1966 third-generation cars (unibody 1961-1963, conventional 1964-1966): driver-quality cars run $18,000-$35,000. Unibody trucks are increasingly collected for their unusual configuration but rust concerns limit value. 1967-1972 "bumpside" F100s are the breakout segment of the past five years. Driver-quality cars run $22,000-$42,000, with restomod builds reaching $55,000-$95,000+. The 1967-1968 cars with the small bumper are the most desirable years. 1973-1979 "dentside" F100s have appreciated dramatically since 2018. Driver-quality cars run $18,000-$35,000, with restomod builds at $45,000-$85,000. The 1976-1979 cars are particularly popular for cosmetic restomod builds. 1980-1983 final-generation F100s remain the bargain entry: $12,000-$25,000 for driver-quality cars. The 1980 redesign brought the modern bigger F-Series styling. Project F100s start around $8,000-$18,000 across most generations. Stripped roller candidates: $3,500-$8,000. Either buy a finished truck or buy a clean rust-free truck and build it yourself.

Did You Know?

The F100 designation began in 1953 with the redesigned F-Series replacing the original 1948-1952 F-1 nameplate. Ford's product planners chose the "F100" to indicate the half-ton (1/2-ton) payload class within the new F-Series numbering scheme: F100 (half-ton), F250 (three-quarter-ton), F350 (one-ton). The naming convention has remained essentially unchanged through Ford's modern F-Series production. The 1961-1963 unibody F100 was a bold experiment: Ford built the cab and bed as a single welded unibody structure rather than as separate components. The configuration improved aerodynamics and reduced manufacturing costs but proved problematic for working trucks (frame flex caused bed-side dimensional issues), and Ford reverted to conventional cab/bed construction for 1964. Documented unibody F100s are now collected for their unusual configuration and short production run. The "bumpside" and "dentside" nicknames for the 1967-1972 and 1973-1979 F100 generations didn't exist when the trucks were new, they're enthusiast-coined terms adopted in the 2000s when these generations entered the collector market. Bumpside refers to the raised crease running the length of the bedside that gives the truck its name; dentside refers to the indented or "dented" lower bedside crease that distinguishes the 1973-1979 generation.