Elite Dealer

1966 Ford Mustang

Michigan

$27,795

Vehicle Details

Make

Ford

Model

Mustang

Year

1966

Mileage

35,291 miles

VIN

AMS32261

Body Type

Coupe

Transmission

Automatic

Fuel Type

Gasoline

Engine

250ci Inline 6

Description

1966 Mustang Fastback Restomod one-of-a-kind, custom designed mustang Shelby tribute fastback conversion, with a functioning rear liftback with a panoramic glass roof. All steel reinforced fiberglass side panels, floor/trunk panels and a removable backseat. New front valance.

New brake lights, turn signals, bezels, new headliner, front seats, arm rests, door handles, dash pad, 8 -Car was recently repainted with DuPont Auto paint in Wimbledon White and Championship Blue, the original Shelby colors, went over with several coats of Dupli-Color clear coat and enamel. - Rebuilt 250 cu inch inline 6 cylinder from a 68 Ford Falcon installed by Willard Automotive last summer, less than 300 miles on it. I only had a 1.9 mile commute to work on an ABC series last year. And that’s about the only place I drove it on nice days. - C4 transmission was rebuilt, replaced vacuum modulator valve, dipstick, kickdown cable...needs a new pan gasket, it’s got a slow drip... maybe didn’t get a good seal when it was rebuilt/installed in September 2020.

I keep type F auto transmission fluid in the trunk. - New radiator, belts, water pump, thermostat, hoses, wiring harness, turn signal switch, headlight switch battery, ignition switch, and fuel lines, fuel tank, fuel filter, system. - All new brake system, new brake lines, master cylinder, new spindles, drums, rebuilt rearend, and some new suspension parts including ball joints, control arms, idler arm. - New exhaust system cherry bomb glass pack, straight front pipe off a 2” header, running out to a side pipe behind passenger door/rocker panel. - Repainted white with blue racing stripes. - Engine has less than 300 miles on it. I do have a new pertronix II igniter, coil and pertronix power relay so you don’t have to bypass pink resistor wire under dash. I haven’t put it on yet...been meaning to.

CJ Pony sent wrong igniter and I finally got the correct one...but points and condenser are brand new...so I’m leaving em in for now.

Classic Ford Mustang Buyer's Guide

Full guide

Mike Sullivan

Muscle Cars

1964–1973

~5 min read

Updated Apr 2026

The definitive buyer's guide for classic Ford Mustang 1964½-1973. Generation breakdown, rust hotspots, engine code identification, Marti Report essentials, and current market pricing.

This guide covers

✓ 10-point inspection checklist

✓ Common issues & what to avoid

✓ In-person inspection guide

✓ Market pricing by year & condition

✓ 6 FAQs answered

✓ History & fun facts

Read the Full Mustang Buyer's Guide

Ford Mustang Market Overview

Based on 500 Ford Mustang listings currently on ClassicCarsArena.com

500

Listed Now

$38,003

Avg. Asking Price

1964–2001

Year Range

Price Position on Our Site — Average Range

This car: $27,795

Low: $3,000 High: $284,995

Transmission Distribution

Automatic 52% ◄

Manual 34%

Condition Distribution

Excellent 10%

Good 9%

Fair 3%

Poor 0%

Data from ClassicCarsArena.com listings Browse all 500 listings →

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What is this car worth?

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Classic Ford Mustang Buyer's Guide

The Ford Mustang launched on April 17, 1964 and sold a million units faster than any car in American history. Sixty years later, the first-generation Mustang (1964½-1973) remains the cornerstone of the classic car hobby — the gateway car for new collectors, the trophy car for veteran enthusiasts, and the most cloned, faked, and re-stamped muscle car on the market. Whether you're hunting a base inline-six coupe or a documented Boss 429, knowing what separates the real cars from the tribute builds is the difference between an investment and a money pit.

What to Check Before Buying

✓

Verify VIN against data plate and engine casting — Fifth digit of VIN = engine code. Cross-reference with block casting number behind cylinder head.

✓

Order Marti Report for any 1967+ car over $30K — Ford's original production records via Marti Auto Works. $25 confirms what the car actually was when it left the factory.

✓

Inspect torque boxes from underneath — Front and rear, where the unibody meets floor pans. Rotted torque boxes = $3,000-$6,000 repair and chassis flex.

✓

Pull kick panels and check cowl seam — Where windshield base meets firewall. Cowl rust here drains into the cabin and rots floor pans.

✓

Magnet test rocker panels and quarters — Body filler is non-magnetic. If the magnet doesn't stick, the panel has been filled — meaning underlying rust.

✓

Check shock tower welds for cracks — Cracks radiating from upper shock mount = beaten chassis. Common on Big Block cars and 428 CJs.

✓

Verify original GT/Mach 1/Boss equipment — Without Marti docs and matching data plate, treat all performance trim claims as clone candidates.

✓

Test all electrical functions — Every gauge, every switch, every light. Brittle 60-year-old harnesses and worn switches are universal.

✓

Compression test all eight cylinders — Should read 145-175 PSI uniformly. Variance >15% between cylinders = head gasket or ring problem.

✓

Drive at least 30 minutes on highway — Listen for differential whine, transmission slip, brake pulsation, steering wander. Watch for overheating in stop-and-go traffic.

Common Issues

Mustang rust is everywhere and predictable. The torque boxes (front and rear, where the unibody meets the floor pans) are the structural killers — rotted torque boxes mean the car flexes under load and the doors won't close right. Cowl rust hides under the dashboard where the windshield base meets the firewall. Floor pans rust through from the underside in any car that lived north of the Mason-Dixon. Rear quarters, lower fenders behind the front wheels, and the trunk drop-offs are all standard rust zones. Mechanically, first-gen Mustangs are simple but the small details matter. The Toploader four-speed is bulletproof when synchronized properly; the C4 and C6 automatics are robust but commonly leak from front pump seals. The 9-inch rear is bombproof — but make sure the gear ratio matches what's claimed. Engine identification by casting numbers is essential: many cars wear the wrong block, and a 1968 GT 390 with a 1973 351W block is not what the seller is advertising. Electrical issues plague any 60-year-old car. The original wiring harnesses are brittle, the headlight switches fail, the gauges read inconsistently, and the turn signal switches die. Plan to replace the headlight switch, the ignition switch, and at least the engine-bay harness on any first-gen Mustang you buy. Budget $800-$1,500 for a complete electrical refresh.

What to Look For

Always start with the data plate (door tag) and the VIN. The fifth digit of the VIN is the engine code — A=289 4V, C=289 2V, D=289 standard, K=289 HiPo, F=302 2V, J=302 4V (Boss 302), M=351 4V, Q=428 CJ, R=428 SCJ Ram Air, S=390 4V, Z=Boss 429. Cross-reference the VIN engine code with the actual block casting number — they must agree. For any car claimed as a GT, Mach 1, Boss, Shelby, or Cobra Jet, demand a Marti Report. Marti Auto Works has Ford's original production records and can verify exactly what the car was when it left Dearborn or San Jose. A $25 Marti Report will save you $25,000 in mistakes. Cars without Marti documentation should be priced as clones, period. Unibody integrity is the other non-negotiable. Pop the hood, look at the shock towers — cracks radiating from the upper shock mount are common on Big Block cars and indicate the chassis has been beaten. Inspect the torque boxes from underneath. Lift the trunk mat and look at the trunk drop-offs. Pull the rear seat and check the floor where the seat bolts down. Fresh undercoating on a project car is a red flag — it's almost always hiding rust repairs.

Price Guide

Base 1965-1966 coupes with the inline-six or 289 2V remain the most accessible classic Mustang at $18,000-$32,000 for solid drivers. Convertibles add $8,000-$15,000 to equivalent coupe pricing. Fastbacks (1965-1968) are dramatically more valuable due to Bullitt and Eleanor pop-culture demand — a clean 1967-1968 fastback small-block runs $45,000-$75,000. 1967-1968 GT 390 cars (Bullitt-style) trade for $60,000-$110,000 with documentation. The 1968 GT 428 Cobra Jet is the holy grail of the small-bumper era at $120,000-$220,000 for documented numbers-matching cars. 1969-1970 Boss 302 and Mach 1 cars run $70,000-$140,000 depending on condition and equipment. The Boss 429 is six-figure-plus territory — $300,000-$600,000 for documented examples. 1971-1973 cars (the Big Body era) have historically been the bargain entry point but appreciation has accelerated since 2020. A clean 1973 Mach 1 with the 351 Cobra Jet now runs $45,000-$75,000 — up dramatically from the $25,000 territory of a decade ago. Project cars (running but rough) start around $15,000 for coupes and $22,000 for fastbacks.

Did You Know?

The Mustang was originally going to be called the Cougar — Lee Iacocca's team had "Cougar" emblems already produced before a focus group response prompted the last-minute name change. The Cougar name was eventually used for the Mercury sister car launched for 1967. Ford originally projected first-year Mustang sales of 100,000 units. The car sold 418,812 units in its abbreviated 18-month launch year, and over a million Mustangs were sold by March 1966 — a sales pace that has never been equaled by any other American automobile launch. The iconic 1964½ designation isn't actually a real model year — Ford built the early Mustangs as 1965 models, but the cars produced before September 1964 had different alternators, generators, and other details, leading collectors to designate them "1964½" cars to distinguish them.

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Elite Dealer

$27,795

1966 Ford Mustang

Michigan

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Original Factory Colors

Official paint codes for the Ford Mustang (1966).

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Model History