Elite Dealer

1980 Chevrolet Camaro

$11,495

Vehicle Details

Make

Chevrolet

Model

Camaro

Year

1980

Mileage

1,000 miles

VIN

AMS49233

Body Type

Coupe

Transmission

Automatic

Fuel Type

Gasoline

Engine

383 Stroker V8

Description

1980 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 Solid 1980 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 powered by a freshly built 383 stroker engine paired with a TH350 automatic transmission. Both the engine and transmission have less than 1,000 miles on them. The car runs and drives well and is equipped with a 10-bolt Positraction rear end, power steering, power brakes, power windows, and new tires.

Features & Details Freshly built 383 stroker V8 — under 1,000 miles TH350 automatic transmission — under 1,000 miles 10-bolt Positraction rear end Power steering Power brakes Power windows New tires Solid car Runs and drives well A nicely equipped Z28 with a fresh stroker combination and low miles on the drivetrain.

Classic Chevrolet Camaro Buyer's Guide

Full guide

Mike Sullivan

Muscle Cars

1967–2002

~4 min read

Updated Apr 2026

Everything you need to know about buying a classic Chevrolet Camaro — from 1967-1969 first-generation icons to the third-gen IROC era. VIN authentication, common rust hotspots, engine identification, and current market pricing.

This guide covers

✓ 10-point inspection checklist

✓ Common issues & what to avoid

✓ In-person inspection guide

✓ Market pricing by year & condition

✓ 5 FAQs answered

✓ History & fun facts

Read the Full Camaro Buyer's Guide

Chevrolet Camaro Market Overview

Based on 264 Chevrolet Camaro listings currently on ClassicCarsArena.com

264

Listed Now

$53,795

Avg. Asking Price

1937–1997

Year Range

Price Position on Our Site — Below Average

This car: $11,495

Low: $5,000 High: $259,900

Transmission Distribution

Automatic 55% ◄

Manual 29%

Other 0%

Condition Distribution

Excellent 14%

Good 8%

Fair 3%

Poor 1%

Project 0%

Data from ClassicCarsArena.com listings Browse all 264 listings →

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Classic Chevrolet Camaro Buyer's Guide

The Chevrolet Camaro launched in September 1966 as Chevy's direct response to the Ford Mustang, and for over five decades it has defined American performance for an entire generation of enthusiasts. Whether you're hunting a numbers-matching first-generation Z/28, a survivor split-bumper second-gen, or a clean third-gen IROC-Z, the Camaro buyer's market is deep, varied, and full of pitfalls for the unprepared.

What to Check Before Buying

✓

Verify VIN against cowl tag and build sheet — Cross-reference all three for matching production date, paint, trim, and option codes. Mismatched cowl tag = body swap.

✓

Check engine block partial VIN — Stamped on driver-side block deck near cylinder head. Must match dashboard VIN for "numbers matching" claim.

✓

Inspect rear window channel and trunk pan — Rust here is hidden but ruins structural integrity. Pop the rear seat and look at the rear window inner channel.

✓

Magnet test rocker panels and quarters — Body filler is non-magnetic. If the magnet doesn't stick, the panel has been filled — meaning underlying rust.

✓

Verify Z/28 RPO code on cowl tag — Genuine Z/28s carry the "Z28" code. Without it, the car is a clone, regardless of badging.

✓

Inspect 12-bolt rear end (first-gen) — Z/28s and SS396s used the 12-bolt. Check for original gear ratio code stamped on axle housing.

✓

Check transmission stamp and ratio — Muncie M21 close-ratio four-speed in Z/28s. Stamping on the side of the case identifies original.

✓

Examine motor mounts and frame rails — Big-block cars are notorious for breaking motor mounts. Look for cracked rubber, lifted engines, or aftermarket safety chains.

✓

Test drive on highway and parking lot — Listen for differential whine, transmission slip, brake pulsation, steering wander. Drive at least 20 minutes.

✓

Document with HD photos before purchase — Photo every panel, every stamp, every sticker. Document VIN, cowl tag, engine, transmission, rear axle. Build the case before you wire money.

Common Issues

Rust is the silent killer of every Camaro generation. First-gen cars (1967-69) hide rust under the rear window, in the trunk pan, around the rear wheel arches, and at the cowl seam where the windshield meets the firewall. Second-gen cars (1970-81) are notorious for rotten quarters, rocker panels, and floor pans — many cars on the market have been patched poorly or filled with body filler. Mechanical issues vary by generation. First-gens commonly suffer from worn 12-bolt rear ends, leaky Muncie transmission seals, and broken motor mounts (a Big Block specialty). Second-gens add tired steering boxes, crumbling vacuum lines, and EGR issues post-1972. Third-gens (1982-1992) are plagued by failing TPI sensors, sloppy T-tops that leak, and worn front coil-over-shock units on the IROC-Z.

What to Look For

Always start with the VIN. The first character tells you the country, the third tells you the model line, and the eighth (on 1972-and-later cars) tells you the engine. Cross-reference the VIN against the cowl tag and the trim tag — mismatches mean somebody swapped a body or a clip. For first-gen cars especially, find the partial VIN stamped on the engine block (driver's side, near the head, on Big Blocks) and on the transmission. Original drivetrains can add $15,000-$30,000 to a Z/28 or SS valuation versus a date-coded replacement. Look closely at the rocker panels, lower quarter panels, and the rear wheel arches with a strong magnet. Body filler is non-magnetic. If the magnet doesn't stick, you've got Bondo — and that's the cheap fix being hidden, not the expensive metal repair.

Price Guide

First-generation Camaros (1967-1969) are the gold standard. A driver-quality 1969 SS396 in good condition runs $55,000-$85,000 today. Z/28 prices range from $60,000 for a clean driver up to $200,000+ for documented, numbers-matching, low-mileage examples. Base 1967-1968 small-block coupes start around $28,000 for project cars, $45,000-$65,000 for nice drivers. Second-generation cars (1970-1981) have appreciated significantly in the last decade. 1970 Z/28 LT-1 cars are the high-water mark at $60,000-$120,000. Split-bumper 1970-1973 base coupes run $25,000-$45,000. Mid-second-gen cars (1974-1977) are the bargain entry point, often available for $15,000-$30,000 for solid drivers. Third-generation IROC-Zs (1985-1990) have entered serious collector territory. Clean L98 IROC-Zs sell for $18,000-$35,000, with low-mileage 1LE and B4C cars commanding $45,000+.

Did You Know?

The original 1969 Z/28 was conceived purely to homologate the Camaro for SCCA Trans-Am racing — the 302 V8 (a destroked 327) was built specifically because Trans-Am rules required engines under 305 cubic inches. The Mustang outsold the Camaro throughout the entire first generation. The Camaro did not outsell the Mustang until 1977, during the second generation. Only 69 ZL1 Camaros were built in 1969 — they were essentially a factory drag racing special with an all-aluminum 427 big block, and they cost more than a new Corvette. A documented original ZL1 sold at Mecum's Indianapolis auction in 2018 for $1.05 million.

Also Consider

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Browse all comparisons →

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1980 Chevrolet Camaro

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Original Factory Colors

Official paint codes for the Chevrolet Camaro.

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Model History