1970 Chevrolet C10

Perris, California

$10,500 $11,800

Vehicle Details

Make

Chevrolet

Model

C10

Year

1970

Body Type

Pickup Truck

Transmission

Manual

Drivetrain

RWD

Fuel Type

Gasoline

Engine

307 V8

Condition

Good

Description

CLEAN BODY\r\nSTANDARD TRANSMISSION\r\n307 ALL ORIGINAL \r\nNEW CARBURETOR\r\nNEW FUEL PUMP\r\n84K MILES\r\n

Classic Chevrolet C10 Buyer's Guide

Full guide

Robert Halloran

Classic Trucks

1960–1987

~4 min read

Updated Apr 2026

Complete buying guide for classic Chevrolet C10 pickups (1960-1987). Generation breakdown, frame inspection essentials, common issues by year, restomod vs original valuation, and current market prices.

This guide covers

✓ 10-point inspection checklist

✓ Common issues & what to avoid

✓ In-person inspection guide

✓ Market pricing by year & condition

✓ 5 FAQs answered

✓ History & fun facts

Read the Full C10 Buyer's Guide

Chevrolet C10 Market Overview

Based on 326 Chevrolet C10 listings currently on ClassicCarsArena.com

326

Listed Now

$30,376

Avg. Asking Price

1937–1995

Year Range

Price Position on Our Site — Below Average

This car: $10,500

Low: $4,500 High: $114,995

Transmission Distribution

Automatic 68%

Manual 21% ◄

Condition Distribution

Excellent 7%

Good 12% ◄

Fair 3%

Poor 0%

Data from ClassicCarsArena.com listings Browse all 326 listings →

💰

What is this car worth?

Check sold prices for the 1970 Chevrolet C10

Valuation Tool →

Classic Chevrolet C10 Buyer's Guide

The Chevrolet C10 is the most popular classic American truck on the road today, and that popularity has driven values up considerably over the last decade. Whether you're after a clean 1967-1972 short-bed Fleetside or a square-body restomod, this guide will help you spot the good, the bad, and the cleverly disguised.

What to Check Before Buying

✓

Inspect frame rails under cab — Use flashlight and screwdriver. Stab gently at boxed sections. Solid metal resists; rotted metal flakes.

✓

Pull floor mats and check floor pans — Both driver and passenger sides. Look for filler over rust holes — common shortcut by previous owners.

✓

Examine cab corner rust — Visible from inside through kick panels. Rust here often migrates upward into the door hinge area.

✓

Look at cowl drain area — Where windshield meets firewall. Plugged drains rot the cowl from inside out. Big repair if rotten.

✓

Lift bed if possible — Inspect bed floor, bed sides, and bed support crossmembers. New paint hides damage; lift it up.

✓

Check engine block stamps and casting numbers — Verify if the engine claimed (350, 396, 454) matches what's actually installed. Casting numbers identify year and displacement.

✓

Verify transmission and rear axle — Stamps and tags identify original equipment. Important for documented original-condition claims.

✓

Test all gauges and electrical — Wire gauge issues are common. Verify oil pressure, temperature, fuel level, alternator. Check headlights, marker lights, interior lights.

✓

Drive on highway and on backroads — Listen for rear differential whine, transmission slip on shifts, brake pulsation, steering wander. Drive at least 30 minutes.

✓

Document with photos before purchase — Photo every panel, frame rail, engine bay, undercarriage, and tag/stamp. Build the case before you wire money.

Common Issues

C10 trucks rust in predictable places. Lower cab corners, behind the rear wheels, the cab mount points to the frame, and the bed floor are all classic rust zones. The cab corner rust often hides behind cosmetic patches — always remove the kick panels and look up into the corner from underneath. Frame rust is the silent killer. The frame rails directly under the cab can rot from the inside out, especially on trucks that lived in salt-belt states. Check the boxed frame sections with a hammer or screwdriver — solid steel rings, rotten metal flakes. Mechanically, C10s are dead-simple — that's part of their appeal. The 250 inline-six, the 305 small block, and the 350 small block are all bulletproof. The Saginaw and Muncie manuals and the TH350/TH400 automatics are equally robust. The leaks and tired components on most surviving trucks are easy fixes — but compounded leaks can mean a tired engine that needs a refresh.

What to Look For

Two things matter most when shopping a C10: the frame and the cab. Everything else is replaceable. The frame should be solid, especially through the section directly under the cab and at the cab mount points. A flashlight under the truck is mandatory. Don't trust shiny paint on the frame — fresh paint can hide flake rust. The cab is the second non-negotiable. Cab corners can be replaced (they're a reproduction part you can buy for $200), but a totally rusted cab base is a job that justifies finding a different truck. Lift the floor mat, pull the kick panels, and look at the floor pans. Patch panels welded sloppily over rotten metal is a 'restoration' that's actually a re-rotting in slow motion. For square-body C10s (1973-1987), look closely at the cowl seam where the windshield base meets the firewall. Water collects there and rots both downward into the cab and forward into the firewall. This is one of the more expensive repairs on this generation.

Price Guide

C10 prices have moved dramatically since 2018. A driver-quality 1967-1972 short-bed Fleetside small-block runs $28,000-$48,000 today, with show-quality examples hitting $60,000-$95,000. Long-bed Fleetside trucks are $8,000-$15,000 less than equivalent short-beds — they're slower to appreciate but offer the most truck for the money. Square-body C10s (1973-1987) have been the breakout segment of the last five years. A clean 1981-1987 short-bed Silverado runs $22,000-$45,000, with restomods (LS-swapped, modern wheels, air ride) commanding $50,000-$95,000. Step-side beds are slightly less popular than Fleetsides but uniquely characterful. Project trucks (running but rough) start around $8,000-$15,000. Stripped frame-up restoration candidates can be had for $3,500-$7,000, but be honest about what the restoration will cost — $30,000-$60,000 is realistic before you're done with paint and interior.

Did You Know?

The 1967 C10 introduced the curved windshield that became the signature design element of the second-generation truck. Before 1967, all GM trucks had flat glass. The 'short-bed' versus 'long-bed' distinction comes down to wheelbase: 115 inches for short-beds, 127 inches for long-beds. The short-bed Fleetside is the most desirable configuration in today's collector market by a wide margin. The term 'square-body' for the 1973-1987 generation didn't exist when the trucks were new — it's a nickname adopted by enthusiasts in the 2000s and 2010s when this generation entered the collector market.